Wednesday, April 25, 2012

San Juan River -- Sand Island to Mexican Hat

We're home from three days on the San Juan River!  It was a pretty incredible trip -- everything came together perfectly.  I snatched a permit at the last minute, the weather was fantastic, and we had a great time.  Now I'm sunburned, relaxed, and already chomping at the bit to hit the water again!

JAWS -- the Great White

lunch + swim break

The River:  The San Juan River is one of the major tributaries of the Colorado River.  As it flows from the San Juan Mountains of Colorado through New Mexico and into the southern portion of Utah, it carves incredible meandering red-rock canyons.  It was also home to ancient tribes who left behind intricate artwork and rock dwellings.  River runners today encounter braided flatwater sections, deep meandering canyons, and moderate rapids.

Nuts and Bolts:  A 3-day, 27-mile river trip from Sand Island to Mexican Hat took a little planning, but was logistically easier to pull off than I thought it would be!  First, I called the Monticello BLM office to secure a permit (check out their website for more detailed information.)  We spent the next couple days frantically packing, scrounging up the mandatory BLM gear, and hoping we'd be able to fit everything in our small inflatable kayak!  Because it was such short notice, I was told to pick up the permit at the Sand Island ranger station the morning of our trip.  We camped at Sand Island, then met the ranger the following morning.  She looked over our boat, made sure we had the required equipment, and issued our permit.  Supernice and friendly!

Once we got the green light from the BLM ranger, Jordan drove my car 22 miles down to Mexican Hat.  We had called Valle's Trading Post (435-683-2226) a couple days before to arrange a shuttle for $65 + $3/day.  My car stayed at Valle's, while Jordan was shuttled back to Sand Island.  (Don't leave a vehicle at the Mexican Hat ramp -- lots of theft!)

All the planning and shuttling were finally over -- time to hit the river!


Desert bighorn

The Southwest had a really dry winter this year, and water levels are low everywhere.  April is also a little early to do a San Juan trip -- most groups wait until May or June when the water level peaks.  This means the ducky might bottom out and we'd encounter more rocks than usual.  The river was only running at 600 cfs the day we left, but low levels probably worked in our favor because a lot of the bigger rigs were backing out.  And ... it was totally fine.  The ducky is small and light, and we were able to scoot over or wind around all the rocks.  We occasionally scraped bottom, but never had to get out and walk.

We definitely did the lazy, relaxed version of this 27-mile trip and got out to explore quite a bit.  One of the coolest stops was the Butler Wash Petroglyphs at River Mile 4.5.  This was a huge, intricate rock art panel full of Ancestral Puebloan glyphs.  Very cool.

Pit stop at Bulter Wash Petroglyph Panel

Butler Wash Petroglyph Panel

We also stopped at the River House at River Mile 6.  This is one of the largest Ancestral Puebloan dwellings along the San Juan River.  It was built on a south facing wall to take advantage of low-angled sun rays in the winter.  In the summer, when the sun is directly overhead, most of the rooms remain in the shade and stay relatively cool.  The structure also includes rock art images of sheep, snakes, waves, and hands.

River House
Prickly pear

We camped at the Comb Wash campsite, which was big, beachy, and full of lush cottonwoods.  Beautiful.  You aren't assigned campsites on a San Juan trip, but there are a couple quirks to choosing a spot.  The left side of the river is part of the Navajo Reservation, so you can't camp there unless you have a permit.  Also, it's good form for small groups to leave the big sites for big groups.

Camping along the river

On Day 2, the canyon grew narrower and the walls became steeper.  At this point, we started to run the first decent rapids.  Almost everything was a Class I-II, read-and-run rapid.  We've been running rivers for less than a year, but it all seemed pretty straightforward.  I think the Moab Daily at high water was tougher!  Four-Foot Rapid (RM 11.5) and Ledge Rapid (RM 19) were both short and splashy.  We did get out to scout Eight-Foot Rapid (RM 17,) which was a little tight and rocky, but no problem for the ducky.

Eight Foot Rapid (Class II)
The rest of the trip went waaaay too fast.  On the second night, we camped at Lime Creek, which had some incredible views of the Raplee Anticline.  We gawked at the Raplee Anticline and Mexican Hat Rock all the way to the boat ramp, then reluctantly headed back to civilization.  I'm definitely hooked on the San Juan.  I would love to do the entire 83-mile run down to Clay Hills Crossing.  Wonder if there's any way to fit 7 days worth of gear in the ducky?!

Raplee Anticline from Lime Creek campsite


Lime Creek campsite


Thursday, April 19, 2012

San Juan River prep

Awwww hey!  I just scored a permit for the San Juan River for this weekend!!  It's a 3-day, 27 mile float from Sand Island to Mexican Hat.  Most of the rapids are rated between Class I and II, although there's one Class III at mile 17.  This will be the first ducky trip of the season -- can't wait!

I thought there'd be no way I'd get one of these permits.  (Check out the Monticello BLM's website for more detailed information about getting one.)  Usually they book up waaaay in advance, but this low water year does have its perks.  The San Juan is only running at 500 cfs (check the current levels here,) which is the bare minimum for float trips.  I think a lot of the bigger rigs are backing out, which opened up a spot for our little ducky.  Hells yeah!  I'm sure we'll scrape bottom, run into some sand bars, and negotiate a few more rocks, but it'll be worth it.

San Juan River -- Sand Island to Mexican Hat


Packing up!


Pack List for 3-day Ducky Trip

Getting packed is definitely putting my Tetris skills to work!  Our two person ducky is pretty small and we need to pack enough stuff for 3 days out.  The BLM also requires some extra gear, which is going to make it even tighter.  Even though the forecast is calling for highs in the mid-80s, it's still only April, so I think I should bring some warm gear to be safe.

Ducky gear
Ducky (Sea Eagle 370)
Air pump
2 paddles
Dry bags (2x30L, 2x20L)
Loads of carabiners
Rope

Safety
Life jackets
1st aid kit
Ducky patch kit
Extra valves
Bilge pump

Etc.
Wallet
Cell phone
Camera w/ waterproof case
Book
Pen
River guide
Headlamp
Pocket knife
Lots of ziploc bags

BLM required gear
Extra paddle
Fire pan
Wag bags w/ammo can

Camping
Tent w/ stakes and poles
Sleeping bag
Sleeping pad
Inflatable pillow

Clothes
Sunglasses
Swim suit
Shorts
Chacos
Ball cap 
Watch
2 short sleeve T-shirts
1 long sleeve button-up
Long johns
Stocking cap
1 pair socks
Fleece jacket
Camp shoes

Toiletries
Sunscreen
Bugspray
Chapstick SPF
Contact solution, contact holder, glasses
Deodorant
Toothbrush / toopaste
Hair ties
Bandana
TP w/ Purrell

Food / Water
Food for 3 days
Water (1 gallon per person per day) 
Pots/pans/dishes/sporks
Camp stove + gas
Scrubbie

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Hunter Canyon + Courthouse Wash

This weekend we did some relaxing (i.e. hungover) day-hikes close to home.  On Sunday, we hiked into Hunter Canyon, which is along Kane Creek road just west of Moab.  It was a perfect spring hike -- cottonwood trees were leafed out, little fish were swimming in the creek, and birds were flying between the cliffs.  The hike is pretty short -- the plants get thick and overgrown after about 2 miles.  We scooted out when we felt some rain drops, but it was definitely a pretty, enjoyable stroll.

Hunter Canyon


Mahonia -- smells like honey.

Evening primrose -- wilts pink in the sunlight.

On Monday, we hiked Courthouse Wash in Arches National Park.  Courthouse is a lush, pretty canyon with soaring Entrada cliffs, a running creek, little waterfalls, huge cottonwoods, and loads of beaver dams. The entire hike from Highway 191 to the Arches Road is 6.2 miles one-way, and you can use a shuttle car to avoid backtracking.  I wouldn't consider it a "classic" Arches hike (major problem -- no arches,) but we had the place to ourselves and only saw 2 other people.  A quiet hike so close to town is really nice during the spring chaos.


Cottonwood leaves in full force.

Green!



Paintbrush -- partially parasitic.

Fendlerbush -- grow on rocky slopes.

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Circle O

For the second time out on my mountain bike, I tried some slickrock on the Circle O trail.  Slickrock (especially the infamous Slickrock Trail) made Moab the center of the mountain biking universe.  This naked sandstone earned its name from early settlers riding metal-shod horses.  However, for mountain bikes the opposite is true -- the rock grips tires like sandpaper.





Circle O is a good introduction to slickrock riding -- the BLM classifies it as beginner/intermediate.  Head up to the MOAB Brand Trail system, and start on Bar M or North 40.  You'll quickly reach Circle O, which is a 3-mile ride designated by a rust-colored line.  It doesn't have any major climbs or really technical spots, but it's full of dips and turns.  The views of Arches National Park and the La Sal mountains are incredible.


I'm feeling more confident on my bike, but I'm definitely still a rookie.  Riding on slickrock was neat, but it takes getting used to.  I noticed some pros and cons ...

(+)
-- Gorgeous and novel.  It looks like a sidewalk of orange rock.
-- Lots of options.  You're not confined to one path like a singletrack trail.
-- No sand or loose rocks.

(-)
-- Lots of quick ups and downs.  You can't really zone out or "flow."
-- Jarring.  All that hard rock rattles you around.
-- Painful.  Yeah, don't fall.


MOAB Brand Trail System.  Circle O is dark blue. (Map credit:  http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/).

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Fish & Owl Canyons

First backpacking trip of the season!  This weekend, we busted out to Grand Gulch and did an overnight trip in Fish and Owl Canyons.  It was a great spring hike -- the weather cooperated and all the plants were greening up.

Looking down into Fish Canyon.

Grand Gulch is a BLM Primitive Area that protects some amazing natural and cultural resources. A classic Grand Gulch hike is full of Anasazi ruins, and you can definitely imagine people living here 700-1500 year ago -- there's lots of water and plants.  Fish/Owl doesn't have as many ruins as some other Grand Gulch hikes, but we did spot a couple granaries tucked away into alcoves.  The hike ends with a really beautiful kiva as you climb out of Owl Canyon.



A trip down in Grand Gulch takes a little planning.  The BLM uses a permit system to limit the number of people who can spend the night in the canyons.  (They do save some walk-up permits, and you can day hike without any paperwork.)  The day of your hike, you stop by the Kane Gulch ranger station, watch a Leave-No-Trace movie, and grab your permit.

Fish/Owl is a loop hike, and I definitely recommend heading down into Fish Canyon first.   The decent is steep and there's one spot where a rope might come in handy for lowering a heavy pack.  I liked getting that over with first!  I also liked saving the best for last -- Owl Canyon is a little more scenic/interesting with an arch and a really cool ruin.  The whole hike is 16 miles round-trip, although it would have been great to spend another night down there and explore upper Fish Canyon.




Intensity in tent city!

Neville Arch

Hi, Mr. Frog.




Owl Canyon Ruin

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